Coquette apologizes sincerely for her conspicuous absence of late--watching marathons of Laguna Beach on MTV actively sending out resumes is a time-sucking ordeal.
We’re finding “Best of 2004” programs less tedious than in previous years (we might even venture to say utile, given our whole out-of-the-country-for-2004 scenario), so we felt inspired to give it a go ourselves. (The list’s sartorial focus is the product of many, many, hours of 2004 spent “doing the press” at our internship).
BRINGING THE FUNNY TO FASHION
Samurai Shopper- Neiman Markdown Bargain shopping--a woman after our own hearts.
S.S. Fair The New York Times
Samurai shopping means wherever you go, there you are, dressed perfectly for polite society or combat in the erogenous zones. A samurai never says, ''I'm sorry''; only, ''I'm sorry I didn't buy more when I had the opportunity.''
Haut Art British artist Tracey Emin visits Paris for the Couture. (Watch as she out-attitudes the Hotel Costes staff!)
Jess Cartner-Morley The Guardian
Oh wow. Where to begin excerpting? For starters, is she for real here?
"Being an artist is as much about what you can see in the world around you as what you create. I look outside now [we are driving through Paris in dappled sunlight] and I can see how truly beautiful the light is. That's what makes me an artist."
But wait, there’s also:
And she is proud of her body, which is very slim and very busty. "I like being thin. To the point where I'd be anorexic to be thin if I had to be."
We could go on, but we’ll stop with:
She loves Diane von Furstenberg dresses, and Helmut Lang jeans, and Yves Saint Laurent tailoring. But she can't wear Jean Paul Gaultier, she explains as we are waiting on Thursday for his show to start, because "I'm too sexy. It's too much, with my body. I've got it already."
Dispatches from New York’s Fashion Week 2004
Josh Patner Slate
P.S. His dispatch from 2003 is of matching wit and sparkle.
You could easily imagine that Christopher Guest's next movie might be called Fashion Week. Under fashion's big top in New York's Bryant Park lies the kind of peculiar microcosm of egomaniacs and foolish dreamers that Guest has captured so brilliantly in films like Waiting for Guffman and A Mighty Wind. Gravely serious older women in black pantsuits march around with huge black tote bags, scribbling notes. Young women with flawless bodies slink around in evening shoes with 6-inch heels at 10 a.m. Japanese businessmen gather in tight clusters, studying Women's Wear Daily with the intensity of gamblers at the track reviewing their racing forms. Twenty-somethings dressed like pop stars drink pink cocktails. Some men carry purses; others wear fedoras. Everyone looks very busy.
PARIS RELATED
Reports of Couture’s Death Were Exaggerated (Access to this link is unrestricted).
Cathy Horyn New York Times
The death of haute couture makes a good news story. It has a nice sound to it, like a train whistle. The editor sitting in the bar at the Ritz Hotel, eating her $35 Salade Côte d'Azur, can bemoan the fact that Versace and Ungaro are not showing. But the truth is, she has not been interested in them in some time. She is here to watch Melania Knauss, the future Mrs. Donald Trump, change her outfit for each show. She is here to see Oprah. She is here for Valentino's party at his chateau.
What she is here for, in so many words, is the action.
Lanvin Review- At the House of Lanvin, The Return of French Chic
Cathy Horyn New York Times
Contemporary life is messy and fast-paced, and for that reason clothes should look relaxed, but few designers are able to adapt French technique to that modern ideal better than Mr. Elbaz. It might be a single-buttoned jacket in white silk with a loose back (after Balenciaga), worn over a knee-length black skirt that looks as airy as gazar, or a plain raincoat in taupe faille that is manifestly Parisian in its silhouette.
PHOTOGRAPHY
The Decline of Fashion Photography: An Argument in Pictures Not actually published this year; we found it through kottke last week and, struck by its incisiveness, immediately had dangerous feeling that maybe we COULD do the whole fashion thing for a living if there are people out there with the talent and wit of Ms. Lehrman.
Karen Lehrman Slate