Things Overheard While Entering/Exiting Fashion Shows Last Week

French woman (breezing past line at Léonard): I’m with the press. 
American woman (waiting in line):  It’s a FASHION SHOW.  We’re all with the press.

Editor 1:  What’s [Stella McCartney's] obsession with the egg shape?
Editor 2:  She did just have a baby. 

Plus sympa, plus faut attendre.
(More you are nice, more you must wait).
-Good-natured doorman finally taking my ticket, after 11 people with no common courtesy have stomped past.   
 
I have a three-year-plan to get out of the fashion business.

-Stylist in my row at Chanel.  (Whom I wanted desperately to hug). 

Eets like they soaked it in meelk.

-Italian editor tiptoeing her crocodile heels through the snow-slushy red carpet in the Jardin des Tuileries.  YES, THEY ACTUALLY ROLLED OUT THE RED CARPET IN A MUDDY GARDEN.  It was awesome. 

Chanel, Channeling

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Chanel does Marc Jacobs.  This is what I scrawled in my notebook at the show on Friday.  And not because the always modern Karl actually went a little retro, channeling the 1960's.  No, I wrote this because Chanel showed a handful of knitwear looks (about 1/3 of the 65 piece collection) that were so incredibly youthful as to make one imagine a Marc Jacobs girl that had traded up to rue Cambon.

The fashion trade publication, Women's Wear Daily, called it "luxe layering."  Layering indeed.  Jacket sleeves were three-quarter length to show off a fingtertip-touching sweater sleeve.  Cropped pants were worn over stockings.  With short skirts, the rest of the leg was always covered--either by over-the-knee boots or tall, scrunchy leggings that are undoubtedly being knocked off by the fast-fashion chains as we speak. 

These layered knit pieces fit in nicely with the rest of the collection--black and white dresses that were very London youth-quake.  The models’ hair and makeup were inspired by the British icon Penelope Tree.  I loved this Belle de Jourish number.

There are emerging trends from Paris this season (bubble skirts and shawl-collared Balenciaga-style coats spring to mind), but Karl didn’t touch ‘em.  A year ago, he made a bold statement with a gritty collection that decisively broke away from the bow and pearl-wearing lady-monster trend he had created.  For Spring 2005, he took a sort of ironic look at celebrity culture.  In contrast to those statements, this collection seemed just a sort of organic display of how a hip girl likes to dress.  (And Suzy Menkes rides him for it). 

Tail wagging the dog?  Perhaps, but it was just done so damn well.  There’s something about seeing the clothes in person.  You realize that Karl's least exciting looks, his throwaways, are more valuable than the crème of other designers. 

Poking around on style.com at Chanel collections of years past, I was reminded that Karl used to use color!  GASP.  And it was not so very long ago.  He’s doing the right thing to stay in the palette of gray, beige, pale pink, and of course, black and white these days.  It lends a sort of season-to-season coherence that allows his fans to gush, “It’s always so Chanel,” when in fact, it’s always so Karl.  Just check out the silhouette of his jeans here (a mirror to the leggings he showed Friday), and you will see the German designer's personal tastes are very much a part of what makes today’s Chanel line, so very Chanel. 

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The Devil Wears Cream Pie

Yes, we did see Anna Wintour at the Chanel show Friday.  No, we did not witness the pie incident

Though we imagine if one were to have a pie-in-face debacle, a fashion show, what with its high blow dryer-to-person ratio, would be about the luckiest venue on the planet for speedy wig-cleaning. 

Oh, and the pie was tofu.  So says our friend the Asian Leprechaun.

Prêt à Porter - Day Four

J’en.  peut.  plus.

Fatigue has hit.  All sudden like.  But with the force of a Mack truck.  Was wondering when that would happen.  I feel college-exam-week tired.  And there’s an ache thing happening every time I raise my arms. 

I was awake at the shows today, though. Oh, yes. And you can bet your boots I’ll be writing a post mortem on what went down.  (Five shows and you think stuff didn’t go down?  Oh, STUFF WENT DOWN).

My seating for certain shows was amazing.  Seating is a ridiculously big deal, and it has nothing to do with being able to see the clothes--that’s all done by appointment later.  Did you know that my old boss just wouldn’t go to a show if she was assigned to the second row?  It was first or nothing.  I saw her today by the way. 

Speaking of people sightings, it seems I'm starting to lose perspective.  Today I was killing time at WH Smith between shows, and here’s Cathy Horyn of the New York Times perusing Vogue Italia next to me.  Later, I’m riding the metro next to a model whose hair is still twisted elaborately from the Cacharel show.  They’re invading MY Paris.  I’m half expecting André Leon Talley to be watching television on my couch when I get home. 

Reviews of the shows are just going to have to come later, sigh.  Stella was stellar, dahling.  Stella was faaabulous.  She’s let me down in the past, but not this time. 

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Behold Stella

Afros on parade (Marongiu)

Trot, show ponies, trot! (Léonard)

Karen Elson + purple = Brilliance (Celine)

This model was in front of me at the ATM right by the Louvre metro after one of the shows.  I took a really poor quality photo of her boots on my cell phone as she stood withdrawing cash, but then I realized I was BEING A TOTAL STALKER and deleted it.

Okay, I really must be going.  A certain silver invitation with interlocking C’s arrived today, in case you were wondering.  So I will be up bright and early with our favorite pony-tailed German designer.  Chanel at 10:30.  Beauty sleep?  At this point, I’d take a beauty nap.  And judging from the present hour, that’s about what I’ll be getting.  A demain.

Dear Stella McCartney,

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Our on again, off again relationship is officially back on.   

Kisses, Coquette

Andrew GN--Clothes for a Russian Debutante (Prêt à Porter - Day Three)

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He has a big following in Japan.  (You never hear of a designer having a big following in Canada, do you?)  He also has a big following with socialites.  And apparently, the Harper’s Bazaar team.  Glenda the Wicked Good Scary Witch of Bazaar made her front row presence wearing a spectacular coat.  White with a gold coral reef pattern.

Personally, Andrew GN leaves the Coquette a little cold, mostly because it all seems so structured.  But will his niche be happy with the collection he showed Wednesday morning?  With fur appearing in almost every look, structured jackets that will be body friendly for non-teenagers, and lots and lots of satin with puff sleeves (this seems to be his signature, if I remember correctly his last collection)--I know the socialites will love it.

You can’t fault a guy for pleasing his customers.

Things I need to do in the next fourteen hours:

(the time is currently 1:30 am Thursday, and yes I am posting from McDonalds again).

1.  Take the dog’s Sherpa to the luggage-repair shop to try and fix the hole that she chewed in it today.  (The owners return Friday).
2.  Attend five fashion shows--Stella McCartney, Léonard, Marongiu, Cacharel, and Celine
3.  Make sure the dog relieves itself at least four times.
4.  Wash my hair.
5.  Orchestrate THE PERFECT OUTFIT WHEN ALL MY CLOTHES ARE DECIDING TO MOCK ME WITH THEIR INAPPROPRIATENESS.   
6.  Sleep. 

How to scare the crap out of me

Tell me I’m going to be in a seat of "high visibility" at Stella McCartney tomorrow.  (We all know the audience is part of the show too, right?)  I CAN’T HANDLE THE PRESSURE. 

A Fashion Show Timeline

Sophia Kokosalaki

9:00 pm  I show up at Le Grand Hotel precisely when the Sophia Kokosalaki show is slated to begin, but they haven’t even opened the presentation room yet.  I head to the lobby.  On the couch next to me, there are three men taking a meeting.  They are flipping through fashion magazines and pointing at flagged pages.  One of them looks over at me a few times to see if I’m eavesdropping.  I play with my cell phone and pretend not to be.

9:10 pm  We, the “early” arrivers, are allowed in.  Everyone looks very important and busy, scribbling notes and talking on cell phones.  One editor is all alone in the front row.  She is wearing a Chanel type jacket and her hair is sort of stiff and coiffed.  I have no idea who she is.  The photographer that is milling around keeps crouching and taking her picture.  I periodically pretend to check messages on my cell phone.

I’m amped for the show.  There has been a nice buzz around this young designer (she’s from London by way of Greece) for the past few years.  She designed the costumes for the Olympics in Athens, which if I didn’t know better sounds like a job for someone whose clothing should appear in Broadway musicals, not the Harper’s Bazaar office on Broadway.

Yet, there is palpable buzz around Sophia.  At my last job, the younger fashion editors were all quite keen to attend her show.  Hype can be contagious, but my interest comes from more than that--she is on the brink.  Will I later be saying, "I was there when..."?

9:15 pm The room is still empty.  I get up to use the ladies', and run smack into Anna Wintour's wigged bobbed head and André Leon Talley's boobs.  Okay, so his chest was covered by that massive scarf he’s always wearing, but my head only comes up to where his man boobies are, I am sure.  The man is a giant. 

9:25 pm   I come back from the bathroom and the room is packed (It seems everyone’s drivers took the same route from the Rick Owens show).  There are faces I recognize--this is more of an event than I thought.

They’ve cranked up the music.  It’s the last show of the night and everyone’s very chatty and smiley.  The lady in front of me says “You took my seat!” in a grating voice to the girl next to her, then a whole cluster of them start laughing.  She was kidding.  Fashion people kidding!  It's a first!

9:30 pm Anna Nuclear Wintour has been waiting for a good 15 minutes now and why the hell hasn’t the show started?

The music is really thumping now.  You know that tension just before a concert starts?  This is what we’re feeling.  A girl with a complicated black top that exposes her shoulders is shimming.  I look around the room-- can you call it a room?  It’s so grand.  The curtains and chandeliers and mirrors.  Let’s call it a salon.  I’m row D out of four rows, and there is such a turnout that people are standing on speakers behind me. 

9:35 pm Why hasn’t the show started yet?

9:40 pm  Because Suzy Menkes, fashion reporter for the International Herald Tribune isn’t there yet, that’s why.  She walks in a half crouch across the floor-level runway to get to her seat.  She sits.  FIVE.  The house lights go down. FOUR.  The runway lights swell. THREE.  All heads swivel to the entryway. TWO.  Out comes Carmen Kass.  ONE. 

The models are always given a “mood” for a show, and I’m personally thrilled whenever they aren’t walking like zombies.  As I may have mentioned last night, Carmen shook it like a Polaroid picture.  Which is always fun.  After all, what good’s having a show pony if it doesn't pick up its heels a little?

Prêt à Porter - Day Two, TEASER!

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Okay, the real “Day Two” is coming tomorrow morning. 

Because my brain is crowded.  Because it’s 1:00 am and I am buzzed.  (And not just on good design--would it be fashion week without a little vin, really, would it?)

I just had to tell you that Sophia Kokosalaki blew my mind.  She’s already a critics' darling, and I suspect she’s really on the brink of being more here.  I wanted everything.  Knee-length cocktail dresses that twisted so cleverly.  Lots of empire waists.  Some jackets that looked killer from the front and saucy from the back (Sophia is known for her tailoring).

A palette of black, caramel, burgundy, and emerald green.  Sweet, but not too on the nose--always with a little edge. 

The models?  There was Carmen opening the show.  Carmen effin worked it.  Daria was there, too.  And Gemma and Karen.  I left the show feeling the same way I do about Chloé and Burberry collections--these are clothes I could actually see myself wearing. 

Also, look who I ran into.  Story tomorrow.  À bient...

UPDATE March 8:  It seems Daria was not at the show that night.  Coquette doesn't always remember to wear her glasses.  Feel better soon Daria!

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